Most of the energy costs spent to keep a Humber home warm in the winter and cool in the summer end up leaving through the attic. In the summer, the sun’s heat pours in through the attic and in the winter, warm air rises past the ceiling and out of the home. Saving on energy costs starts in the attic, but how much insulation is enough?
Are You Trying To Find Roof Insulation Company For Your Humber House?
Although spray foam insulation as we know it today truly emerged in the 1980s around the Humber area, spray foam actually has its roots several decades further in the past, beginning with the development of polyurethane foam in the 1940s by Otto Bayer. Otto Bayer, an industrial chemist, actually began working with polyurethane in Germany during the late 1930s. This technology was brought to the United States in the early 1940s by David Eynon, the president of Mobay, a war effort conglomerate created from the partnering of two chemical industry giants, Monsanto and the Bayer Corporation.
How Much Attic Insulation is Enough?
As the days begin to warm, your equipment starts to work more frequently, and the purchasing of material increases, there grows a responsibility to the material components. There are two core aspects to properly maintaining the PMDI (ISO) and Polyol components of spray foam insulation, Processing and Storage. There is no single constant for all types of material, but there are some general guidelines and recommendations that can be applied to most types of SPF insulation.
PMDIs, the A-component, and Polyols, the B-component, are complex materials that need to be stored properly, especially during the warm months of summer. Common temperatures for storage typically start around 60oF to 70oF and top off in the vicinity of 100oF. It is ideal to store materials in a well-ventilated and climate controlled area, yet not everyone has accessibility to such a facility. Knowing your specific manufacturer's recommended storage temperatures and watching for the bowing of drums are vital to ensuring the proper performance of your product when you begin to process and apply it.
On the material side, the physical drum temperature and preparation of the material are key steps in a successful application. Many open cell spray foams require a process of agitation and/or recirculation before any spraying begins. Drum temperatures need to be maintained at the manufacturer's recommended levels, which typically land around 75oF. Proper drum temperature is one of the factors in producing quality, high yielding spray foam.
Always consult with your manufacturer before spraying any SPF products to make sure all recommended pressures, temperatures, settings, and other conditions are met.
Is Spray on Foam Insulation Worth the Extra Cost?
Movement of air in and out of a home can be a leading cause of escalated energy bills. Air can enter your house through holes, cracks and crevices. You can stop unconditioned air from entering your home and indoor conditioned air from escaping outside by adding an advanced insulation system to achieve optimal building performance.
I have just completed an addition to my house. I've heard that blown in insulation is better than batts since covers the joists completely and leaves no open areas. Do you have any do it yourself suggestions?
Yes you are correct. Blown in insulation is better that batts when installed properly as it does seal the attic better.
First you need to measure your attic area that you plan on insulating. Most attics require a value of R-30, R-38 or R-49, depending on your climate and location. Once you know the square footage of your attic you can determine how much insulation you'll need by simple looking on the chart located on the bag of insulation.
Before you get started you will need to determine what materials you will need. Assuming your home has recessed lights, ceiling and bathroom fans and eave vents you will need the following tools and materials:
Loose Fill Insulation
Staple Hammer and Staples
Insulation Blowing Machine (Available at your local rental store)
I've found blowing insulation into the attic is a simple process. Start and the far ends of the attic. Going back and forth make sure its level and smooth. Make sure to get all areas of the attic and don't fill any vents or recessed light areas. Take a tape measure with you and check the levels once in a while. As an example, if your installing an R-38 of fiberglass insulation you would want it to measure 16 inches deep. As you work your way back near the attic access make sure your helper is getting that excess hose out of the way. When you get to about 6 feet from the access hole stop the machine so you can get on the ladder. Once on the ladder finish installing, making sure to bring the level evenly against the dam you previously built.
The final step is to place a piece of batt insulation in the access hole and carefully put the attic hole lid back into place. Now your done! Stay out of that attic as much as possible from this point as loose fill insulation that has been stepped on or crushed looses it's R value.